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Old 01-27-2002, 09:13 PM   #1
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zipped up leggings

My sister and I are getting new outfits made...the last one for a while. LOL We are getting leggings made that you zip up and what I wanted to know is....how do ya'll make ya'lls leggings stay w/out sliding down? Is there anything we can put inbetween the fabric that can make it stiff? Any suggestions will be helpful. :)
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Old 01-27-2002, 10:48 PM   #2
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You can use plastic canvas between the backings to make them stiffer. As for the zipper situation, I haven't had a problem with my coming down but I do know that some people put a safety pin throught the little hole on the zipper pull and attach it to the top of the legging, just in case.

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Old 01-28-2002, 12:32 AM   #3
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If you back them with interfacing, they will be stiff. Get a heavy weight interfacing, and you should be fine. You just iron the interfacing onto the back of the legging fabric.
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Old 01-28-2002, 01:42 AM   #4
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Smile

I use baby padding to make my leggings and they won't fall down. The padding is stiff and it they will stay up even if u decided to do beadwork on them. I've beaded all of mine and they work fine. It works great :D !!!
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Old 01-28-2002, 12:37 PM   #5
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Yeah, have leg mucles!
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Old 01-29-2002, 09:10 AM   #6
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Lightbulb leggings

:Chatter I have made a lot of leggings , and just finished my first fully beaded. I`ll post pictures later I use vinyl placemats (for table use) and bead directly on it. Or cover with clothe to match the outfit. Line it with cotton material and they never ever sag . I edge it with double width bias tape . I also make large barretts and hair ties , cuffs on the placemats.
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Old 08-13-2010, 04:32 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chemika View Post
:Chatter I have made a lot of leggings , and just finished my first fully beaded. I`ll post pictures later I use vinyl placemats (for table use) and bead directly on it. Or cover with clothe to match the outfit. Line it with cotton material and they never ever sag . I edge it with double width bias tape . I also make large barretts and hair ties , cuffs on the placemats.
chemika
the place mats sounds like a good idea, but when i went to go look for some at the dollar store they were so flexible and i think your legs would get to hot in them. so where did u get the place mats and do your legs sweat?
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Old 08-13-2010, 05:00 PM   #8
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I keep the zipper a little longer then the actual leggin, so you zip it up and tuck it in and it stays put. But I also use the heavey duty coat zippers that hold really good.
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Old 08-14-2010, 01:18 AM   #9
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Use interface to make them stiff. I then line in cotton for comfort. Put the zipper on upside down...then your foot will fit in easy. I use dress zippers. Coat zippers are so big, you wouldn't want to see the zipper. I have never had a zipper problem but then agail mine zip down. I make mine tight. I measure width around top of knee, calf and ankle. For my one friends daughter (who lacks good calf tone) I sew a loop of elastic at top of tHe legging (opposite the zipper) this stops hers from turning around backwards.
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:08 AM   #10
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what is baby padding and crib sheets? baby sheets r not stiff. at lease i dont think they r. and what is bias tape and fun foam. sorry so many questions but i have started a design for zip up leggings and i need some ideas like should i bead on canvas or use it as backing for the material i beaded on?
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Old 08-14-2010, 05:12 AM   #11
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do u use the place mats with foam on the back of it? i bought some to day. thinking on making some leggings. gosh i am so nervous to make them
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Old 08-14-2010, 11:45 AM   #12
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I go with the heavy interfacing. its really thick & stiff-not fusible. I then tacky glue it in the middle of a layer of muslin, and the paper pattern. The glue helps keep it stiff, too.
As for the zipper, I use the kind that opens on the end. It's probably only approx. 9 inches...or 6...one of those....I just adjusted the pattern to that cuz I like to keep my beadwork flat for storage & travel so it doesnt break the thread. That keeps my leggings looking better-longer....
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:46 PM   #13
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I use the heavy plastic zippers- they come in about any color you can think of. They stay up pretty good. I love the upside down idea!
The heavy duty pellon works great. I use inbetween the layers. I haven't tried the iron on, cuz it's so much higher in price.
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:31 AM   #14
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I go with the heavy interfacing. its really thick & stiff-not fusible. I then tacky glue it in the middle of a layer of muslin, and the paper pattern. The glue helps keep it stiff, too.
As for the zipper, I use the kind that opens on the end. It's probably only approx. 9 inches...or 6...one of those....I just adjusted the pattern to that cuz I like to keep my beadwork flat for storage & travel so it doesnt break the thread. That keeps my leggings looking better-longer....
what is tacky glue and where can u get it? heavy interfacing?
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Old 08-15-2010, 09:33 AM   #15
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the heavy interfacing( Pellon is a brand name) can be purchased @ Walmart, Joanne Fabrics, or online at some of the crafting/sewing websites (71F Peltex Single Sided Fusible Pellon,71F Peltex Single Sided Fusible [71F] - $34.95 : Products A LA CARTE, Your Complete Source of Pellon Products)
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Old 08-16-2010, 01:15 PM   #16
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I've made many dozens of leggings, beaded and not.

For cloth applique leggings, I use Heat-n-Bond Lite to fuse my base fabric to duck cloth or canvas. I then sew on all my appliques. Then I use another layer of Heat-n-Bond to fuse on a cotton backing. The edges are bound with bias tape and then the zippers are sewn on last. I like this method because its breathable yet gives a good amount of stiffness. The baby pad/rubberized fabric and plastic just don't appeal to me because they lack that breathability. I have heard of people using plastic canvas as a stiffener but that stuff is not very durable. One wrong fold , it will break and then the legging is toast.

For fully-beaded leggings, I bead directly on a duck cloth or canvas base. When the beading is done, I will either use the Heat-n-Bond as described above or I will apply and iron-on fusible interfacing and then a cotton backing. The only real difference is that I bind my edges before beading and not after like I would for cloth leggings.

Ask the clerk at the fabric store to show you the different weights and thicknesses of interfacing and stabilizers. She should be able to answer your other questions too.

I cut my leggings with a notch at the top of the foot which helps to prevent the legging from sliding around.

I use a medium size zipper- in between the dress ones and the heavy duty coat zippers. If matched in color to the bias tape edging, you can barely see them.

Practice on scraps first before using your expensive fabrics.
Good luck!
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Czechy View Post
I've made many dozens of leggings, beaded and not.

For cloth applique leggings, I use Heat-n-Bond Lite to fuse my base fabric to duck cloth or canvas. I then sew on all my appliques. Then I use another layer of Heat-n-Bond to fuse on a cotton backing. The edges are bound with bias tape and then the zippers are sewn on last. I like this method because its breathable yet gives a good amount of stiffness. The baby pad/rubberized fabric and plastic just don't appeal to me because they lack that breathability. I have heard of people using plastic canvas as a stiffener but that stuff is not very durable. One wrong fold , it will break and then the legging is toast.

For fully-beaded leggings, I bead directly on a duck cloth or canvas base. When the beading is done, I will either use the Heat-n-Bond as described above or I will apply and iron-on fusible interfacing and then a cotton backing. The only real difference is that I bind my edges before beading and not after like I would for cloth leggings.

Ask the clerk at the fabric store to show you the different weights and thicknesses of interfacing and stabilizers. She should be able to answer your other questions too.

I cut my leggings with a notch at the top of the foot which helps to prevent the legging from sliding around.

I use a medium size zipper- in between the dress ones and the heavy duty coat zippers. If matched in color to the bias tape edging, you can barely see them.

Practice on scraps first before using your expensive fabrics.
Good luck!

thanks for the info. nobody answere me about the bias tape. what is bias tape and what is interfacing?
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:46 AM   #18
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Interfacing is a nonwoven material that is used for backing other fabrics and to make whatever your sewing stiffer and lay flat, like the collar and cuffs on a shirt. It comes in lightweight, medium on up to pretty thick ones, depending on what you're doing with it. For beading, get the heaviest weight you can.

I think it still needs a backing like brown paper or bonded paper if you're beading on it.

Bias tape comes rolled around little cards in the sewing dept. It's strips of fabric cut on the bias (diagonally) then folded so you can use it to edge other fabrics. It comes in all colors and either single fold or double fold. You want double fold to edge leggings.

If your beading your leggings, use the doubled folded bias to edge them before you bead them.

I don't suggest using crib pad or placemats...they don't breathe and placemats will deteriorate FAST. I saw mocs made out of them...not a pretty sight.

For beading, what I would do is use 2 layers of the heavyweight Pellon interfacing with a brown paper backing (like a grocery sack) all tacked together. Sew single folded bias on the side to be beaded. Bead the whole thing except for the edge. Line it with cotton, then fold the bias over and sew in place by hand. Then you can edge bead it, or not.

Good luck.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:51 PM   #19
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wyo, ive seen paper bag backing, can you tell me why thats used?? I dont use it but have seen it, also did a repair on a older piece and when I repairing it I saw brown paper.
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Old 08-19-2010, 04:40 AM   #20
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the heavy interfacing( Pellon is a brand name) can be purchased @ Walmart, Joanne Fabrics, or online at some of the crafting/sewing websites (71F Peltex Single Sided Fusible Pellon,71F Peltex Single Sided Fusible [71F] - $34.95 : Products A LA CARTE, Your Complete Source of Pellon Products)
thanks so much for the info on interfacing. that helps out to know what to use.
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