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Old 09-23-2004, 02:10 AM   #1
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broadcloth leggings style

I've noticed that some straight dancers wear broadcloth leggings that are not the "common" tab style but have the same cut/pattern as buckskin leggings. An example would be Joaquin Hamilton Youngbird in the straight dance gallery. I like this style of leggings and was wondering if it was tribal specific or a style that has recently developed?

Last edited by redsky; 09-23-2004 at 02:31 AM..
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Old 09-23-2004, 11:36 AM   #2
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I don't think it's anything tribally specific. But, it's certainly not anything new. There's a few nice examples in museums, or pieces collected among other tribes in other regions.

There's a pair of tab leggins in the Chandler-Pohrt Collection in the Detroit Insitute of Arts with a Chippewa attribution I believe.

They're half red and half black/dark blue, with some "chain link" like designs done over the leggings set on a diagonal, done in silk ribbon. They date, I think to around 1850 or so. I'd have to check.

I've seen old black and white photos of Otoes wearing this style of legging, but, in typical Otoe fashion, they had the "spats" added onto the bottom. Typically they we're done in hide, but, several of them in the photos I've seen we're actually done in list cloth (broadcloth).

As a side note. I've seen some examples collected among the Utes, cut like hide leggings with the tab, but, done in broadcloth or from blankets. Typically, alot of it was actually Jicarilla Apache in origin, but, was probably traded or acquired in some manner from the Jicarilla Apaches.
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:29 PM   #3
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Mr. Bo Jangles:
I've been doing my best to gain a good understanding of what straight dancing means and I appreciate the information.
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Old 09-23-2004, 07:06 PM   #4
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You should try to seek out some knowledgeable folks from Oklahoma if you want to gain some understanding into this dance.
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Old 09-28-2004, 01:03 AM   #5
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Yeah....but I am in Utah. I know a couple of female Oklahoma Indians that I went to school with up here but I haven't seen them around in a few months.
I know how to make the more common style of leggings but would you know the correct way of making the style I asked about?
It sounds like you know the area where I'm from? North of T&R Market another 20 miles, a place called Tohatchi.
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Old 10-07-2004, 02:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsky
Yeah....but I am in Utah. I know a couple of female Oklahoma Indians that I went to school with up here but I haven't seen them around in a few months.
I know how to make the more common style of leggings but would you know the correct way of making the style I asked about?
It sounds like you know the area where I'm from? North of T&R Market another 20 miles, a place called Tohatchi.
Dang, I should come over and just cut em out for you.

LMAO!!

YEah right!! ....I can see it now, me screwin up a good four yards or so of cloth!!! LMAO!!!

Man, they're just tab leggins, only made out of cloth.

Make a set out of canvas first for a pattern. You may have to measure several times around your calf and on down to your ankle to get a good amount of taper going on, that way they don't look all bulky and stuff. Just don't hack off TOO much. The trick is to make them look snug, without them actually being snug.

To achieve this look, you could also do like they used to do, or some still do, with buckskin leggings. Employ the use of a stirrup, attach it to the inside of the leggin ankle and then bead over that portion when your done, no one will see that bit, and the stirrup will be hidden inside your mocs. Basically, it's a strip of cloth or leather, about an inch or so wide, runs under your foot, about midway under your foot, under the arch, kind of towards the heel, and up either side of the foot. It's sewn in place up around the ankle with a few stitches. With cloth, you may have to reinforce this at the ankle, because it may put some stress on the cloth in the ankle. It basically just pulls down the ankle portion and keeps them from riding up. It gives that nice TIGHT, TAPERED look that you see on good leggings.

Folks that aren't really too familier with how to do that section on the ankle really stand out, they end up with these SUPER TIGHT ANKLE portions, or these really CLUNKY looking messes around their ankles.

You basically measure the ankle portion like you would for cloth leggings with the ribbonwork panel. ...since you said you already know about that, I won't go into it.

.....others probably have other methods, but, I've found that just following the same method for cutting out tabbed leather leggings is the route to go with this.

I mean, all you're doing is making a pair of tab, front seam styled leggings...only in cloth.
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:40 PM   #7
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Mr. Bo Jangles:

Thanks for responding. I do appreciate the help. I sometimes get caught up in the "nitpickiness" that so many dancers exhibit that I spend to much time thinking instead of doing.
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Old 10-09-2004, 05:15 PM   #8
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great post

Great post, I have seen old pics of thease stlye of leggins too. But it seems in the last ten or so years they have made a real big come back. I have seen alot of newer leggins like this being worn by pawnees and otoes. Ralph Haymond has some killer pairs he made.

But like BoJangles said there just like hide leggins, no big deal. If you need any infro I might be able to dig up some old articles i have somewhere.

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Old 10-12-2004, 06:35 PM   #9
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Front Seam Leggings?

It sounds as though you may be referring to Front Seam Leggings. If so, I can tell you the Front Seam Deerskin Leggings were once very common among Missouri River Tribes including the Omaha, Ponca, Otoe, Pawnee, Iowa, Sauk & Fox, Kaw, Osage and Missouria.

They were made in a similar fashion to Tab Leggings most common among the Kiowa and Comanche, however the Front Seam Leggings usually had a more rounded tabs with no decoration on the tip, and frequently had no fringe below the tabs. In addition, the Front Seam Leggings, as the name suggests, were worn in such a way so that the seam ran down the front of the leg instead of on the side. The pair of tabs would then extend outward just above the knee and hang down to about mid shin. One of the most notable features of the Front Seam Leggings are the bottom portion, which was very snug at the ankle and then flared outward to almost completely cover the moccasins. Frequently, the tabs and sometimes the flared portion of the bottom of the leggings were decorated with "Stylized Floral" beadwork.

Toward the late 1800s, many old photos were taken (check out the photo collection of the Nebraska State Historical Society) of men wearing these deerskin Front Seam Leggings or the evolution of the Front Seam Leggings done in red or dark blue wool broadcloth.

One of the best articles I have come across on these was titled, "Front Seam Leggings" written by Norman Feder in American Indian Tradition, 1962, Vol. 8, No. 3.

Hope this helps.
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Old 10-14-2004, 01:15 AM   #10
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Historian:

Thanks. Your comments are always very helpful.
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