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-   -   How many beads in rows for lazy stitch? (http://forums.powwows.com/f14/how-many-beads-rows-lazy-stitch-70631/)

Broken Arrow 05-20-2017 02:04 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Perhaps I should have a used felt-tip pen instead of pencil. Pencil is easier to erase in case of error.

I tried with "monster" beads what I think how cheyenne stitch is. I suppose that I am still missing the point.

On the back you see the what on buckskin would not be visible on the back but is within the skin.

OLChemist 05-20-2017 05:14 AM

1 Attachment(s)
If I understood what Wardancer said correctly, rather than running the stitch through the first beads of the prior row, it is run underneath the threads anchoring the prior row.

Broken Arrow 05-20-2017 05:45 AM

Wardancer writes

Quote:

Cheyenne style lazy stitch doesn't "stitch" on both ends ! First row does , but the second row hooks the threads on the first row
Cause he says that second row is stitched only on one end to the hide lets me think, that the thread on the other end goes through the last bead of the first row.

The other way would be to tuck the thread of the second row under the thread of the first row which comes out of the last bead but without going through the hide. As seen in your attached.

Oh, oh. If so, you need to be even more awfully accurate in the length and uniformity of all stitches.

wardancer 05-20-2017 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLChemist (Post 1632509)
If I understood what Wardancer said correctly, rather than running the stitch through the first beads of the prior row, it is run underneath the threads anchoring the prior row.

That is correct. Just go around the threads of the prior row.

OLChemist 05-20-2017 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Broken Arrow (Post 1632510)
Oh, oh. If so, you need to be even more awfully accurate in the length and uniformity of all stitches.

Indeed. Many of us draw light pencil lines on the hide, marking the edges of the lanes. You will need to cull your beads, removing the very thin and very thick, to keep the lanes even.

Since colors often differ in thickness, you may need to vary the number of beads in a row. For example I frequently use medium/turquoise blues for backgrounds (252, 254, 242, 247, 240) and lots of the dark red (082) in my designs. This red is often thinner than the beads in the background. I may have an 8 bead lane in the background, but in the red area it will be 9 beads wide.

Broken Arrow 05-20-2017 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OLChemist (Post 1632512)
Indeed. Many of us draw light pencil lines on the hide, marking the edges of the lanes. You will need to cull your beads, removing the very thin and very thick, to keep the lanes even.

Since colors often differ in thickness, you may need to vary the number of beads in a row.

This red is often thinner than the beads in the background. I may have an 8 bead lane in the background, but in the red area it will be 9 beads wide.


I am preparing to do one new pair of mocs. I am yet undecided if the pattern shall be in general a total of eleven (6 + 5) or thirteen (7+6) beads. The lower row the one with the more beads.

I will do some tests beading on scrap pieces before beading the real piece and follow your advices.



All projects are delayed for some time. Now is busy time of the year because of all the exams which need to be rated.

With that pair, I will have more mocs than I can ever wear out. As slipper, one pair might last me a lifetime. In the forest and on the meadow of the archery club, the not beaded pair lasts longer than expected and will last even longer. Nobody seems to notice the not beaded mocs. (Ok, I only put them on when the weather is dry and sunny.)


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