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Old 09-28-2000, 08:21 AM   #21
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thanks for all the input here. gave me alot of idea on rosettes. now i think i can make them look right.

keith
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Old 10-20-2000, 05:00 PM   #22
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The best backing material I have found for rossetts is mending fabric and typing paper. Take two pieces of mending fabric and iron a sheet of paper between two pieces of fabric. the material is stiff enough not to use hoops and is easy to bead on.
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Old 10-25-2000, 11:25 PM   #23
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You might try beading a rosette on this starched felt that is out now. Noc Bay sells it as a beading foundation, but if you are close to a Michael's craft store, you can get the same stuff in bigger pieces for less.
I used that stuff to make a dance purse, and it was very easy to bead on.
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Old 10-26-2000, 10:26 AM   #24
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In my opinion (for what it's worth -- did I hear a .02 bid?), you need the flat piece of cardboard/posterboard/cigarette carton/etc. to make the rosette have a super flat finish. I've seen and done it both ways--with the cloth next to the beads and the board next to the beads. I prefer the board. The rosettes lay flatter and the beadwork looks more uniform. I've always used paper about the weight of a brown paper sack to something the weight of a file card. The only time I use a hoop is if I'm working on a diagonally appliqued piece (i.e. Crow pattern). For the circular applique piece, there is no hoop.
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Old 11-05-2000, 10:04 PM   #25
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Here's what i do, just in case there isn't enough info here already....

I bead on 2 layers of Pellon. I like this better than the paper since the needle goes through more easily and it holds small stitches better without ripping out. After beading, I use the plastic insert mentioned above for stiffness(Pringles lid, milk jug)and then back the rosette with leather.

Other hints: if using lots of dark beads, color the background of your sewing material to match with colored pencil or permanent marker so the white doesn't show through.

Most important, do your first four rows of beading with only two beads at a time, as mentioned above also. After that, you can increase the number of beads per stitch. Also important, don't sew your rows of beads too close to each other as that will cause the buckling problem as well.
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Old 11-23-2000, 09:59 PM   #26
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TextHello everyone! A friend turned me on to this site and I am glad! Everyone here has some good tips. I have been beading freehand rosettes for a long time now, but just started doing the round ones recently. I have found this fun foam stuff at Walmart that runs about 50 cents to a dollar a sheet that makes wonderful stuff for beading rosettes on. You want to get the 2mm stuff and not anything thicker or it is just too bulky, but you can draw right on it and not have to worry about your needle bending or breaking. A few things to keep in mind though, don't pull your thread too hard, you can pull through the stuff, but not too easily. And you will want to back it with and index card or posterboard then leather. I have made several things using this foam and it works great, and does'nt biodegrade so as long as it is taken care of, it should last years I am guessing!It is also nice and flexible for barrettes. I look forward to coming back here.
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Old 12-01-2000, 03:24 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by BeadedPony:
Doggone it, Raptor...I knew someone would remember another!!

Some of the most beautiful work are those flat gourd Comanche rosettes!!!

Thanks for reminding me.
If anybody wants to see one go here:
http://www.powwows.com/ubb/uploads/m...mrbeadwork.jpg

y'all have a nice day! ;-)
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