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Forum Home - Go Back > Pow Wow Crafts > General Crafts > Tutorials Hard sole mocs tutorial Hard sole mocs tutorial

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Old 05-21-2004, 11:53 AM   #81
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Wow, nice pics! And it's good to see that your method and mine aren't that different. Just slightly. But you know long time ago, different tribes could be identified by their moc soles footprints.:p
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:37 PM   #82
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Looking good!!! Simpler than the missouri river patterns so far
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Old 05-22-2004, 12:33 AM   #83
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W_rose

Most definitely sole shape could (and in some instances still does) help determine the tribal identity of the maker. There are some folks out there that like to artifake things to look old and will still use those sole shapes.

This is basic instructions for mocs construction and need only be altered slightly to achieve several different tribal styles of mocs. The particular mocs I am making for my niece are to leaning toward Pawnee, but the instructions will produce many different style I use it mostly to make S. Cheyenne style mocs.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:30 AM   #84
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Well...I am going to finish up this tutorial now...ya ya I know...Finally...LMAO!!!

Okay, uppers can be beaded or plain. Also the uppers can be beaded before or after the mocs are together. This is all a matter of personal preference and dictated by the type/style of beadwork that will be done on the mocs.

The pair I am working on will be partially beaded but I will not be doing the beadwork until after they are completely sewn up. I am doing this because I am short on time before my nieces will be using their mocs and I want them to have some say in the designs and colors that will be used.

STEP 11

At this point I use artificial sinew and size 3 glovers needles to sew the mocs up. I pull off about 12 feet worth of sinew and split in down (in half). I set half aside for the second pair of mocs and the put a needle on each end of the 12 feet worth of half diameter sinew. I then take the 2 needles and put them through the sole leather on either side of the toe/heel line as shown in the attached pic.
Attached Thumbnails
step-11.jpg  
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:34 AM   #85
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STEP 12

Now I fold the welt in half and run the 2 needles through it on either side of the half way point and then through the upper leather on either side of the toe/heel mark at the toe that I put on it. Remember that which ever side of the upper leather that you want on the outside will need to be facing you at this point. In other words the bottom of the sole and the top of the upper need to be touch each other.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:37 AM   #86
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STEP 13

Now at this point I criss cross the threads and sew through the holes of the opposing thread. I do this so that the threads will be locked down and I will not have to have a knot on the inside of the toe of the moc.

Note in the pic how this forms a X over my toe/heel line mark.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:41 AM   #87
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STEP 14

Now it is time to start sewing. I sew the 'big toe' side of the moc first since it will have the tightest curve and thus be more difficult. As you pass the needle downward through the sole, align the edges of the welt and upper and then pull it down in front of where the needle will come out of the sole. Push the needle through the welt and upper and then pull. Now realign everything back up and snug it down and proceed to the next stitch.
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step-14.jpg  
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:45 AM   #88
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STEP 15

Continue sewing down the moc to the arch line mark. You will probably notice that the arch line mark on the upper does not meet up with the one on the sole (which can be seen in the attached pic). This is fine for the snug fit that I like, but if you are wanting a fuller fit then you may need to take slightly longer stitches on the upper than you do on the sole. This will cause the upper leather to pucker a little bit with each stitch and thus take up the difference slowly as you proceed down the side of the moc.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:49 AM   #89
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STEP 16

Now, you will stop on the side you were sewing and move over to the other side and sew in the same manner you chose to on the 'big toe' side of the moc (either snug or loose fit). What you want to do is sew so that the arch line marks on the upper will be fairly close to straight across from each other. Continue sewing this side all the way down to the toe/heel mark at the heel.
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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


My comments are based on what I have been taught and my experiences over the years I have been around the circle. They should in no way be taken as gospel truths and are merely my opinions or attempts at passing on what I have learned while still learning more.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:52 AM   #90
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STEP 17

Now go back to the original side and finish sewing it back until it meets the other side.
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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


My comments are based on what I have been taught and my experiences over the years I have been around the circle. They should in no way be taken as gospel truths and are merely my opinions or attempts at passing on what I have learned while still learning more.
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:56 AM   #91
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STEP 18

At this point it is time to pop the moc right side out. You can pop the moc in one of two directions. The first would be starting at the toe and rolling it inward, back on itself toward the heel as shown in the first pic. The other method shown in the second pic (and the one I prefer of the two) would be popping the moc over through the foot opening of the moc and then pushing the toe area forward.
Attached Thumbnails
step-18a.jpg   step-18b.jpg  
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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


My comments are based on what I have been taught and my experiences over the years I have been around the circle. They should in no way be taken as gospel truths and are merely my opinions or attempts at passing on what I have learned while still learning more.
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:05 AM   #92
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STEP 19

Now you need to cut off any excess leather at the heel seam. The way you cut this excess off will also determine how the heel fits the foot. A heel naturally bend in toward the ankle and so some folks like to cut this at an angle taking more off at the top than the bottom so the moc will shape to the foot. Other will just cut it straight. Which ever way you prefer be carefull not to accidentally cut your sewing threads since you are not done with them.

Also you may now need to bend the sole back around into proper shape at this time, since the 'popping' process is done by folding the sole in on itself causing contortions in the sole.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:08 AM   #93
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STEP 20

At this time I cut the side to side slits that will form the opening for the tongue and the flaps. I lay the upper down against the sole and then slide my scissors in, align my cut and make it, and then repeat on the other side.
Attached Thumbnails
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:11 AM   #94
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STEP 21

Next I swing the sides back over the sole so I can sew the heel seam together. I first criss cross the threads again as I did at the toe when I started sewing and then I tie a knot in the threads. Next I use one of the threads to start whip stitching the heel seem together.
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:13 AM   #95
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STEP 22

I continue whip stitching the heel seam up to the desired point and then I stop and go back to the other thread and do the same thing up the heel seam. Once the second thread meets the spot I stopped with the first thread I tie the two together and then burn the ends down.
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"Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up." Pablo Picasso

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


My comments are based on what I have been taught and my experiences over the years I have been around the circle. They should in no way be taken as gospel truths and are merely my opinions or attempts at passing on what I have learned while still learning more.
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:17 AM   #96
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STEP 23

Now pop the heel back up and stretch and flatten the seam. You do this by pulling the leather in opposite directions and using your finger nail to push on the seam from the inside. You may also need to cut off the excess welt at this time leaving about 1" worth of welt sticking out.
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"Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up." Pablo Picasso

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


My comments are based on what I have been taught and my experiences over the years I have been around the circle. They should in no way be taken as gospel truths and are merely my opinions or attempts at passing on what I have learned while still learning more.
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Old 05-23-2004, 04:21 AM   #97
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STEP 24

Now you can put on a tongue in the desired shape you want. You may also want to run a lace through the upper of the moc as per the tribal style you have chosen to do. I prefer to use an awl to punch the hole for the laces through the hide rather than cutting slits in it.

Once these things are done your mocs are ready to try on. If you chose to bead them after sewing them up then you have a bit more work to do. If the uppers were beaded first, then you may have a bit of edge beading and embellishing left but should be pretty well finished.

Good luck and if anyone has any more questions feel free to fire away.
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"Every child is an artist. The problem is how to remain an artist once we grow up." Pablo Picasso

"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


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Old 05-23-2004, 11:36 AM   #98
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Excellent post PWB! Very detailed and described, very easy to follow!

Just a few questions though...

I noticed that you welt looks a bit "wide". I've always tried to keep it real thin, because I was concerned that it might get too "bunchy" in the inside around the toes. BUT, when I've tried to get it too thin, it breaks too easily. Do you trim it after sewing?

When you are stitching onto the sole, I noticed that the upper tends to lay all the way across the sole to the punched holes in the top. Since I've only done soft soles before, I'm used to the upper and sole meeting along the edge, not overlapping... How far should this overlap? When you punched the holes with the awl, it exits the sole on the edge right? Is that latigo or rawhide?

Very informative. I may have to try some hard soles now! My soft soles are comfy, but when stones get kicked onto the lawn or the walk, they hurt! I guess I'm just a tenderfoot!

Thanks!
Tom
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Old 05-23-2004, 03:45 PM   #99
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Hockeyfan

My welt is not precisely cut but is about 1/4" in width. I try not to go thinner than that for the reasons you spoke of. If it gets a bit wider than that the excess can be trimmed off after the mocs is popped. It doesn't extend to the inside because like I said in the earlier steps...I align the edge of the upper and the edge of the welt as I am sewing it together. By doing this any extra width just sticks to the outside of the mocs and can be trimmed easily with a sharp pair of scissors.

I haven't made a pair of 2 piece soft soles in years, cause there are way to many little rocks that hide in the grass of the dance arenas around here and like you I must be a tenderfoot...LOL! Yes, the holes I prepunch do come out on the side of the sole. It is done this way so you are not walking on the thread used to sew the upper and sole together with and thus wearing it in two quickly. When you are prepunching the holes in the sole it will very on the thickness of the sole leather and the angle you are punching how far in from the edge you will need to start the hole at. Heavy hides like rawhide can hold shorter punched hole but softer hides like russet need deeper prepunching. I do no less than 1/8" in, but prefer to start the holes 1/4" or even slight more so that there is less chance of the stitches pulling free over time. Be careful prepunching cause if you run the awl too far into the hide you can and will bust out the sole leather. If this happens do not panic just move over to where the next stitch should be put another hole in, just be more careful this time. Then when you are sewing just skip the bust out hole and go to the next one you did. The upper hide will be brought in to the meet the prepunched holes on the inside (top) of the sole.

These particular mocs I showed in this thread have russet leather sole. I chose this because the mocs are for a kid and they outgrow them so fast that the sole does not have time to wear out. I prefer not to use that kind of leather when making mocs for adults since adults will use a pair of mocs until they fall apart and need new soles put on. Yes, you can just tear the mocs apart and reuse the upper in most instances, especially if you used good leather for the original uppers.

If you do decide to try and make some hard sole mocs, they can be quite comfortable and when you put a tennis shoe insole in them you think you have tennis shoes on. The down side to hard sole mocs is they can be kinda slick. To avoid this some folks put 'Shoe Goo' on the bottoms of their soles to give more grip.

Hopefully this answered your questions.
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"Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift...that is why is it called the Present." Master Oogway - KungFu Panda


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Old 05-24-2004, 12:59 PM   #100
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Thanks for all the info! I'll try things out soon!

Tom
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