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Old 06-08-2004, 08:55 AM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Rock77
HOW did the beadwork pop off?
well it's simple really , i only beaded on the top half of the skin . the skin is so thin that it just broke . i'm designing my pair for NOAC this summer , and I'm using german tanned in the white (smoked) and rawhide as far as I can see. my other moccs are a mess . the left mocc is kinda wierd because as soon as you put it on the sides poof out and look wierd . I musta cut it too big but it's too late now . my other pair will kich a$$ I have the beadwork set out and all my friends say it's awesome design . well I'll let you know how it turns out
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Old 06-08-2004, 09:15 AM   #102
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hey pwb49: is it best to punch the holes at an angle or just straight down ? this came up in my first pair .also which do you suggest beading first or second ? just a couple of quick questions. I might have some more soon
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Old 06-08-2004, 02:25 PM   #103
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MD

If you are unsure whether you have made the upper pattern right and do not know if it will fit ok...then I would suggest doing the beadwork after you have put the moc together. For an inexperienced moc maker it is very easy to make mistakes and if the beadwork is already on the upper before it is sewn together you can't just take it apart and adjust it.

As to the hole question...I am assuming you mean those that are prepunched in the sole. These hole should NEVER come out on the bottom of the moc sole, because if they did you would be walking on the threads that stitch the mocs together and would wear them in two in short order causing your mocs to come apart. These hole should be punched at an angle so that the hole start on the top of the sole and comes out in the side of the leather. Go back through the pics I attached to this tutorial and find the one where I am punching the holes in the sole. You can see how I am angling the holes so they come out the side of the sole.
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:27 PM   #104
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pwb;
okay will do . like i said earlier the beadwork on mine just popped off while i was turning it inside out . so I was just wondering if this technique is easier .
thanks for the help
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Old 09-01-2006, 05:05 PM   #105
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If I make a pair of mocs out of canvas I also put about a 3/8" wide strip of leather around the edge all the way around the top. So it would be over the bias tape. Then I sew the moc top to the sole. My son is a grass dancer and does alot of dancing with his toes. This extra save the beadwork. He can drag his toes and not be rubbing the beads off.

I haven't tried the latigo soles. I just take my mocs down to the leather store and have them soled. They both glue and sew on the thick leather soles or vibram soles. I will have to try the rawhide soles. Do they get slippery on grass? How long do they last? My kids dance just about every weekend for usually 5 sessions in different weather conditions. Soles usually last about 5 pow wows.
Thanks
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Old 09-07-2006, 10:39 PM   #106
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Boy I couldn't imagine a moc with a vibram sole on it...LOL...be like dancin in huntin boots. I do know folks that will make their mocs and then take them to town and have a second leather or foam sole glued onto them. Even knew a guy that used a flip-flop sole as the sole on a moc.

Rawhide soles last very well but they are slick on concrete...not to bad on grass though. Nice thing about them is that they will form to the persons foot as they are worn and get damp. Just for your info...rawhide moc sole leather is not like rawhide for a drum or commercial rawhide. It has the flesh side scraped clean and them fur side is dry scraped leaving the scarf skin and some small amounts of hair on it.

Latigo isn't too bad and is easier to work with than rawhide but wears out faster. The most important thing about making good mocs that will last a long time is to use good hide, uppers included. Commercial hide will always wear out faster than brain tanned. If I am using commercial I like to use elk or thicker...in fact elk is my all around favorite for hard sole mocs, moose for soft soles
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:35 AM   #107
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I made a pair of hard sole to wear around everywhere. Sole is latigo, upper is commercial tanned elk. They don't look so pretty anymore because in the summer that's all I wear unless it's raining but they are holding up rather well.
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:45 PM   #108
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yes the Vibram soles wear well. They are not the full thickness of a pair of hunting boots. I can't imagine my daughter dancing in something that awkward. She would rather go barefoot. I think that I will try the rawhide sole though. If they hold up well on concrete and grass, is that also true for hardwood floors?. Alot of the winter dances are in gyms. Thank you for all the help.
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:53 PM   #109
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by powwowbum49 View Post
STEP 24

Now you can put on a tongue in the desired shape you want. You may also want to run a lace through the upper of the moc as per the tribal style you have chosen to do. I prefer to use an awl to punch the hole for the laces through the hide rather than cutting slits in it.

Once these things are done your mocs are ready to try on. If you chose to bead them after sewing them up then you have a bit more work to do. If the uppers were beaded first, then you may have a bit of edge beading and embellishing left but should be pretty well finished.

Good luck and if anyone has any more questions feel free to fire away.



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Old 10-09-2008, 01:03 PM   #110
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check ur local bead store that sell native work. they should know of someone local.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:38 AM   #111
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I have plantar fasciitis which requires me to have a lot of arch support or my feet hurt. If I want to put insoles in my mocs should I give them a little bit of extra room or should they stretch a little as I break them in?
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:01 AM   #112
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Actually both...I would suggest getting your arch measurement with your inserts under your foot so you know you have just enough room for it. Too much and the moc will be baggy. You will also have to watch as you sew it up that you do not stretch it too much around the sides. Pay close attention to the marks on the sides of the sole and the upper and try not to let the upper mark end up more then a 1/2" past the sole mark. This will make sure there is adequate room for your foot and the insole.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:03 PM   #113
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Thanks pwb49
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:39 PM   #114
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Great

Great tutorial! I've made canvas top mocs before and they hold up rather well. Any chance of getting a tutorial addendum on:
rawhide soles
Ladies boots (kiowa/Comanche style)

The worst time I had was when I made a pair of mocs for my mom and couldn't get them sewn on straight. (Was in a time crunch too of course) The design was such that made it VERY obvious too...She put them on and it looked like she was pigeon toed! Had to redo them 3 times before they looked even halfway right. That's when my sis taught me to tack them at the toe and on each side at the arch beforehand...... will never do a pair any other way after that fiasco.
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:50 PM   #115
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That is why I start sew front and center and go around the big to first. I normall have no trouble when I do this (unless I screwed up beading them first. What are you wanting to know about rawhide soles and boots? I can add on to this I suppose. I am working on a set of boots for my wife right now and I have a new set of mocs underway for me that are being put on rawhide soles.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:36 AM   #116
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rawhide soles and boots

I've just enjoyed reading your tutorial so much I'd kind of like to see it coninue.
Last year I bought some rawhide soles from a guy at Hammond Pow wow over Memorial Day (have since misplaced the dang things) Is there anything special you need to do when you sew them up. Also, I was taught if you have trouble popping latigo soles, place a wet rag on them to soften them up a little then turn 'em. If you do that to rawhide soles, would they shrink?
On boots, I guess I'd like to see how you change your regular pattern to add the "legging" part of it. How much overlap, how you attach the ties. Just trying to keep the thread going.
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:49 AM   #117
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Oh wow! I just wanted to say thank you for posting this. I have been wanting to try making a pair of maccasins for years. Now that I finally have the time to do it, I was lacking a good pattern. Thank you!!! I can not wait to start!
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Rock77 View Post
A piece of advice....
Try to find some good knife-edged shears (scissors) to cut your leather with. They're stout enough and sharp enough to cut latigo, and you won't run the risk of slicing your finger. I haven't had any problems cutting leather (latigo or otherwise) with scissors. I just find it easier. X-Acto knives are nice, but one slip, and you ruin your piece or slice a finger.
I use a pair of tin snips(designed to cut sheet metal). I use them to cut elk rawhide for drums, they will cut all thick hides like scissors thru paper. rawhide, latigo, strap, you name it they will cut it.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:05 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by wyo_rose View Post
Hey I kid you not! I only tried one rawhide soled mocs and that was over 10 years ago. I just used my buckskin needle and pushed it thru with a scrap of TOUGH buckskin and pulled it thru the other side with a scrap of GRIPPY buckskin. I still have the Tough piece and you can see the many, many holes punched in it.

I have an awl, but it must be a FAT awl. Until I find a skinnier one, or someone gives me one;) I'll have to stick to soft soles or latigo.

Anyway, what's the next step after getting all these specific supplies together? And do you make custom patterns or do you have tons of patterns labeled by size?:Chatter
Take your fat awl and file it down to a roughly 20 degree point with a grind going at least an inch up the shaft. Keen points with gradual transitions to full thickness will go though easily compared to standard rope awls. Be sure to get the file-work even all around and circular. It may take an hour or so, but it will save many headaches. It helps to clamp the file down and sharpen the awl that way since it's easier to see what you're doing. A fine sandpaper can be used to get a mirror polish and make it even better, but isn't needed. If your awl is not stainless steel, I suggest bluing or soaking in vinegar to prevent rust. (Maize-Grower is a former Blacksmith with 7 years experience in making, modding, and repairing tools; and making knives.)

Disclaimer:
Keep in mind to never point it towards yourself or others or things you don't want holes in. I'm not responsible for any injuries or damages.
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