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Old 02-09-2007, 10:48 AM   #21
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cut n fold

My auntie just uses manila folders for her ribbonwork templates. I use plastic sheets kind of like what they use for transparencies. One time I found this plastic stuff that was gridded like graph paper. GREAT STUFF! I'm sure I got it at Wal Mart since in my home town that's all there is! Really, you can use anything as long as it's stiff and doesn't lose it's edge with tracing multiple times....
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Old 02-10-2007, 12:03 AM   #22
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Thanks for the help Paul!!!!! I bought Scarlet Ribbons and have the recent article in Wispering Winds on Clip and Fold, but I was having a hard time connecting the dots. I think I have it figured out now. Guess we'll find out soon enough, I'm going to try doing a little clip and fold work on a shirt soon in addition to my applique work.

A tip I'd like to add is with small detail work, you can seal the edges of your material with products like fray check after heat bonding them. There are a couple other methods as well. If they are super small you can then use a straight stitch to sew them down.
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Old 02-11-2007, 12:58 PM   #23
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Awesome tutorial, 2 thumbs up from me!
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Old 03-26-2007, 12:12 AM   #24
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Template material

Keeping in mind that I work in a hospital, I have used old x-rays for template material. It holds up pretty well to the repeated use and light ironing. I talked to one or our radiology techs and she gave me several of the films they use to clean the machine. Also, the plastic sheeting that you make stencils out of might work.
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Old 03-27-2007, 04:51 PM   #25
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Try using the blank plastic stencils from Walmart. They'll be with the other stencils, but the blank one is just a sheet that doesn't have anything cut out of it. Its pretty cheap and you can trace out the ribbonwork pattern on paper, then cut out the paper, trace it onto the plastic, cut out the plastic, and have your pattern to use over and over again!
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:46 PM   #26
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I'm glad I ran into this thread...I always wondered how to do ribbonwork. Thank you for sharing - appreciate it!!
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:18 PM   #27
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Thumbs up

finally one i can understand, thank you for posting this Tutorial
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Old 09-25-2007, 04:34 PM   #28
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Thank you and a few questions

Hi,

Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it all out, and it is in my crafts file. I love the step-by-step instructions and pictures and all the tips really help.

Two questions-- fray check. This is staining my applique fabric. Do you use something else? Not use it?

Also, tight corners. Do you sew all the way to the end and then back up and turn, or do you just turn at the corner. I am having trouble with these. I love my machine, but it ends a seam with the needle up! ARGH. Makes it hard to turn corners.

Thanks again for a great tutorial.
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Old 09-25-2007, 04:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apaze25 View Post
Hi,

Thank you so much for this tutorial. I have printed it all out, and it is in my crafts file. I love the step-by-step instructions and pictures and all the tips really help.

Two questions-- fray check. This is staining my applique fabric. Do you use something else? Not use it?

Also, tight corners. Do you sew all the way to the end and then back up and turn, or do you just turn at the corner. I am having trouble with these. I love my machine, but it ends a seam with the needle up! ARGH. Makes it hard to turn corners.

Thanks again for a great tutorial.
I manually move the dial slowly until I can get the needle right on the point then make the turn.
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Old 09-25-2007, 07:35 PM   #30
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Thanks

Thanks for the advice. I have been working at it since I got home from work. Back breaking! LOL! The test appliques are coming along. I stop and go manual with the wheel right before the corners and it works.

Take care! and thanks again.
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:25 PM   #31
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Glad you find the tutorial helpful.

For sewing your appliques, hopefully you are using a a very close stitch length- almost like a satin stitch. At tight corners, I sew past the corner only enough to equal the width of my row of stitching. I put the needle down in the OUTSIDE position so that when I lift up the presser foot and pivot my work to sew the next side, I am actually sewing over the last bit of the previous sides's stitiching. I hope that makes sense. If you look closely at the pictures, you'll see the corners are a little darker, because of the overlapped sewing there. Some people pivot with the needle on the inside edge and this is okay but it does leave little gaps in the corners.

What are you using the Fray-chek on?
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:56 PM   #32
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Thanks Czechy

thank you!

That makes perfect sense. I tightened my stitch and then made sure I had the needle on the outside. Before I did that I was having trouble zigging instead of zagging (LOL!) and having the seam after the corner turn go on the inside instead of along the edge of the applique fabric. ACK!

I am using ribbon for the applique fabric. It was fraying, so I was using that Dritz fray check on the edges. When I switched to a tighter stitch, you couldn't see the marks anymore because they were covered. Is it better to use satin instead of ribbon? I want shine, but it satin frays less I'll use that. I am practicing now before I do THE appliques. It is for a T-dress.

It is getting late, so I had better call it a night.

Thanks again for all your help. I WILL get this!
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:33 AM   #33
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Are you fusing the ribbon to a stabilizer? A good stabilizer like Wonder-Under or the Heat-n-Bond Lite will prevent fraying and give some body to thin fabrics. The double-sided kind will allow you to "glue" on your applique to the base fabric so there is no need to pin it for sewing down. If you use the stabilizer, you won't need the Fray-chek. The only time I would not use a stabilizer is when doing the snip-n-fold style of ribbonwork, which is a different method altogether.

Ribbon can be used for applique but you'll find it more economical and a wider choice of colors if you use yard goods. Yes, satin is a very popular choice. There are several grades of satin, some being very thin (usually called costume satin and its the cheapest) while at the other end is the bridal satin which is heavier (and more expensive). I prefer the medium to heavier satins. They wear better and look nicer.
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Old 09-26-2007, 10:52 AM   #34
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thanks!

I actually had some satin lying around and tried that vs. the ribbon last night, and it worked much better. I am using Steam a Seam. I think I have read that Wonder Under is a bit more stiff than Steam a Seam, so I will look for that at the store when I go tonight to get my scissors sharpened.

Thanks again!

Take care
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:22 AM   #35
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Hey Czechy.. I forgot this thread was here and made a small applique tutorial myself but it was for ribbonwork strips... would you be offended if I just added it to this tutorial?
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Old 01-03-2008, 07:08 PM   #36
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Heck, why not?

Feel free to attach your work, Blackbear. There's more than one way to do ribbonwork or applique so it will benefit everyone to show the various methods people use.
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Old 01-04-2008, 05:55 AM   #37
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Thanks.. I just did'nt want to come off rude in assuming it was ok, and did'nt want to start a new thread like yours or Paul's was'nt good enough or something. I'll try to get it up tonight or in the morning.
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Old 01-04-2008, 12:38 PM   #38
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Yes please share, im sure there are plenys who need the help! and would enjoy all they could learn...
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Old 10-15-2008, 11:50 AM   #39
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Props to Czechy for starting this very helpful thread! :D
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Old 09-17-2010, 05:41 PM   #40
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Thanks for the tutorial...I had heard of a way to do it, but I was struggling to stop the fraying without using Fray-chek or something similar. The backing definitely helps.

I have heard that it is possible to use applique to decorate one's mocs. Would one sew the applique on before the soles, or how would that work? (thanks in advance)
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