Good for you. I miss going. I'm having to sit things out since I lost my Dad in Nov.

I am going to write you a good long PM after work. Meanwhile, what is your ultimate target with your beadwork?

Personally, I favor Czech's. Even though they can be a bit uneven, and some colors are always thicker or thinner than normal. I like the classic aspect ratio. The holes aren't so big that they are hard to get well filled with thread. (In lane stitch, you want the holes as full as possible to keep the work tight.) Most colors are cold-fast; only the metallics and the pearlescent beads will peel or fade.

Don't underestimate the value of good buckskin. You want it reasonably thick and soft, but not too soft. You want the needle to go in easily. You'll be running it part way through the hide. But the hide needs to have enough body and strength that it can support the weight of the work and the threads won't tear out.

Some folks use crib pads. They have a good weight and strength. They resist sweat and body soils well. But they don't breathe. And they don't have the spirit of the real hides.

Oh well, I babble. Later, girl.

I'm pretty much a self-taught beadworker. My great aunts did a little, but they lived in CA and we almost never saw them. So, I just looked at how pieces were put together and tried it. There is a lot to be said for just diving in.

I will make one suggestion. Don't buy crappy supplies just because you are starting out. I made that mistake beading with these hideously irregular beads from Tandy and using chamois instead of buckskin. My stuff looked bad until I wised up and used good stuff. It is hard enough to learn without having to fight the failings of the beads and leather.

Later!

Hi. Good luck with the beading.