No announcement yet.


  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • leggings

    were is the best plase to by leather from for a set of leggings
    and what kinda leather would be best (garment or what ever)

  • #2
    brain tanned buckskin is the best hide wise. But for that you kind of have to hunt around.

    The next best is (i think) german buckskin- it comes smoked and is pretty evenly sized.

    Look in your area for leather places- The Leather Factory is real expensive but they have decent stuff. You can also order through catalogs like crazy crow, noc bay, etc....

    But your best bet is to go to pow-wows or other events in your area, usually there is at least one person on a circuit that sells hides.


    • #3
      I have a pair of elkskin leggins that I got the hide from Moscow Fur and hide
      Pretty good quality


      The Ultrasuede pair that I have from Joann Fabrics is pretty good also
      They are light and look good! I have a picture of them in my profile picture under powwow pics:

      ᎠᏂᎩᏚᏩᎩ - Anigiduwagi
      Till I Die!


      • #4
        Brain-tanned buckskin would be my recommendation.

        A couple sites to check out:

        Brain Tanned Deer Hides

        Brained Tanned Deer Hides, Brain Tanned Elk Hides, Rawhide, Robes and Hair on Hides - 2008 Trapline Lodges Catalog

        FYI -

        Buckskin is the soft, pliable, porous preserved hide of an animal, usually deer, moose or elk or even cowhide tanned to order, but potentially any animal's hide,. Modern leather labeled "buckskin" may be made of sheepskin tanned with modern chromate tanning chemicals and dyed to resemble real buckskin. Leather is another product made from animal hide, but with a different chemical process to preserve the hide. Buckskin is preserved with a dressing of some kind of lubricant, physically manipulated to make it soft and pliable, and usually smoked with woodsmoke. Smoking gives buckskin its typical dark honey color, but is not required. Smoking prevents the tanned hide from becoming stiff if it gets wet, and deters insects from eating it as well. Unsmoked buckskin is lighter, even white, in color. Though it might be tempting to think that the name comes from buck, a male deer, the name buckskin comes from the alkali soaking process, called bucking. Clothing made of buckskin is referred to as buckskins.

        There are many ways to make buckskin, but most can probably be lumped into two categories: "dry-scraping" and "wet-scraping". Before a hide can be tanned, any flesh remaining on the hide from the skinning process must be removed, usually with a scraper. Care must be taken when skinning, fleshing, and scraping a hide to prevent leaving any cuts or nicks in it which will be visible in the finished buckskin.

        The dry-scrape method involves taking a wet deer hide and stretching it on a rack to dry flat. A scraping tool is then dragged perpendicular to the blade along the hair side, scraping off the epidermis and hair, including all the hair follicles. The flesh side should be scraped as well. When the entire hide is scraped, it is taken off the rack, rehydrated, and dressed.

        The wet-scrape method involves scraping the wet hide on a smooth horizontal log, at stomach or sternum level. A steel blade or split leg bone can be used for a scraper. The hide is draped on the log, the person leans into it, holding the hide in place with their body and pushing the scraper away with both hands. The epidermis is scraped off, and the flesh side is scraped as well, to remove the membrane. If the hide is more than a day or two old, it should be bucked first. "Bucking" can be done in a solution of hardwood ashes in water, or simply lye in water. Bucking causes the grain layer (epidermis) to swell, making it more visible and easier to scrape off. If a small part is left on the skin it will poorly affect the finished product, so bucking is quite helpful. Bucking will also cause the hair to slip and fall off, if the hide is left in long enough. This is also valuable for some processes.

        Once the hide has been scraped it must be dressed in a dressing solution. This can be made from the animals brain mixed into water, or from another emulsified fat. Egg yolks are an example of a commonly used, naturally-occurring emulsified fat. Another option is an oil and a soap mixed in water. Typically the wet hide is wrung out, then left in the dressing solution for 15 minutes or more, then wrung out and dressed again. Repeating this a third time ensures that the dressing reaches the middle of the hide.

        The next step is stretching/drying. This is time sensitive, and has to be done from start to finish without stopping. The drying hide is continuously pulled and stretched in all directions, which lubricates the fibers of the hide with the oil of the dressing, and ensures that the fibers stay lubricated. This may be done on a rack with a stretching tool, or by hand. Often the hide is stretched against a steel cable or a rounded steel or wooden blade (with care not to cut the hide). This must be done until the hide is completely dry and no longer cool to the touch or else the finished buckskin will be stiff, and will have to be dressed and stretched over again.

        The dry skin should now be totally supple and soft. If it gets wet at this stage it must be stretched again until dry, or it will revert to being a stiff piece of scraped rawhide. The water-soluble oils in the dressing will wash out with water. To waterproof the hide it must be smoked. When a hide is smoked, the non-water-soluble oil in the smoke bonds with the water-soluble oil in the dressing, making all of it non-water-soluble. Thus, a smoked hide can be washed, even with soap.

        To smoke a buckskin it is folded in half and glued or sewn into a bag with an opening on one end. A pant leg or other cloth tube is attached to the opening of the buckskin bag. The smoking fire can either be in a woodstove or a hole in the earth. Either way a bed of coals is prepared, and the other end of the pant leg is roughly sealed over the opening of the smoker. The buckskin bag is suspended above the smoker, and sticks can be placed inside of it to prevent the sides of the bag from touching each other. A handful of dry, rotten ("punk") wood is thrown on the coals, and begins smoldering. Care is taken to prevent the cloth from catching fire, as the hide can be burned in seconds. Ideally most or all of the smoke is forced through the bucksin. All holes must be sealed or taped to force the smoke through. The hide is smoked until the smoke color penetrates through to the other side, then the hide is turned inside out and it is smoked again until it reaches a desired color.

        The finished buckskin will shrink slightly after the first washing, so it should be washed or at least wet and dried before making clothing. Buckskin should be washed in cold water, and air dried. Hot water will destroy it. After drying it can be stretched or cabled for a short time to re-soften it.

        Retrieved from ""

        "Be good, be kind, help each other."
        "Respect the ground, respect the drum, respect each other."

        --Abe Conklin, Ponca/Osage (1926-1995)


        Join the online community forum celebrating Native American Culture, Pow Wows, tribes, music, art, and history.

        Related Topics


        • OLChemist
          Cradleboard Instructions (one style anyway)
          by OLChemist
          At long last me and the scanner are all working at once:

          These instructions are for a fully beaded, modern adaptation based on Oglala cradles. It is based on the soft cradle. I'm told the frame is not traditional, but reflects additions made to make cradles more marketable to whites....
          11-15-2004, 08:07 AM
        • powwowbum49
          Hard sole mocs tutorial
          by powwowbum49
          Well, I guess I ought to start this tutorial since I said I would. Folks this is not going to be put up on the board really fast cause I have tons of other projects going at the same time, but I will try not to drag it out forever.

          I am going to do this as a general plains style hard...
          08-24-2003, 03:42 AM
        • webscouter
          Knife sheath
          by webscouter
          Here are some questions for your fine folks. I was just gifted a beautiful knife, deer antler handle with eagle head carved in the end, most symetrical hand knapped blade you have ever seen.

          I am trying to make a sheath for it and am having problems with forming the rawhide inside sheath....
          10-29-2002, 12:57 AM
        • mthunderwolf
          help with dyeing buckskin
          by mthunderwolf
          I have some undyed buckskin that I want do some dying on. I have bought some powder paint from Crazy Crow and would like to know how to "set" in the leather (suede side). THe folks at Crazy Crow told me to mix it with mineral oil. Can anyone help me with this? I am making a new shirt and want...
          04-05-2005, 09:54 PM
        • Caroline
          fully beaded top
          by Caroline
          I am starting work on a fully beaded top for my friend's northern traditional outfit. Has anyone here ever done one of these? I am using canvas as a base to bead on. I pre -shrunk the canvas, cut out the shape and drew the major parts of the design on it with a pencil. I also zig zagged the edges...
          08-25-2003, 11:41 PM



        There are no results that meet this criteria.

        Sidebar Ad