how much should I charge?

[NSoto]

I would also love to see a video or something on how to learn this stitch! It sounds great!

As far as pricing, do you think it is too much to ask for half the money upfront for beadwork requested? Reason being, I have been asked to do a couple peices for someone and went out and bought the color beads they wanted and got started, but did not hear back from the person. Since I do not want to waste time and energy on someone that is not appreciative, would it be bad to ask for half upfront to make sure the person comes and purchases the peice?

[SuzzeQ4]

I would also love to see a video or something on how to learn this stitch! It sounds great!

As far as pricing, do you think it is too much to ask for half the money upfront for beadwork requested? Reason being, I have been asked to do a couple peices for someone and went out and bought the color beads they wanted and got started, but did not hear back from the person. Since I do not want to waste time and energy on someone that is not appreciative, would it be bad to ask for half upfront to make sure the person comes and purchases the peice?

I think it's a good idea. Protects you so that your not spending money you may not have too.

[NSoto]

I think it's a good idea. Protects you so that your not spending money you may not have too.

Thanks SuzzeQ4, I was thinking for now on I will charge for half up front, but wanted to get an opinion.

[Tibiki Kinew]

Yes the square stitch is as close as it gets to the wampum stitch that I have seen. The ladder is not and neither is the brick!
The square stitch is about the only stitch that comes close and that alone is a blessing. The main thing when starting that is not mentioned is a blind bead. Take any bead, an oddball so to speak and make that your constant blind bead for this stitching process. The blind bead gets tied to the very end of your thread to stop the beads from falling off. When you start the pattern you can take the whole row ans string it on and then follow the beading advice from the square for the first three rows, then go back to the first rows and flip the pattern over to redo the first level with the thread so that the first row gets snug. When you reach the end of a thread and it is only a few inches long, hide the thread in previous rows and zig zag away from the area you are working on. There are absolutely ZERO KNOTS in this way. Once you get the first thread done, take the loose start from the thread where the blind bead is and remove the bead, thread the needle on it and feed and hide the thread within the beadwork.
You can do this anywhere you are and you do not need much space.
Oh when you get to the last row of your beaqding pattern, again flip it over and redo the stitch in the opposite direction to once again tighten the outside edge.
Once you get comfortable in this you will work with this stitch entirely, in fact you can do covered beading on necklaces that way too! Grandmother Urse (bear) does one better, by taking up to 5 sizes of beads can do 3-dimesional beading and keep it stiff! SO flower blossoms and birds are easy for her! Yes completely round shapes without stuffing them!!! She uses size 10 to size 15 seed beads for shaping and bigger beads for cores!
This stitch started on the east coast with the Migmaw and has been shared all over but again forgotten and partially used and retitled! The first rows are what make the stitch unique, going back to firm up the outside is what makes it special. If you do not do the outside in the opposite way you have looser beads on the first row!