Making Moccs

[bayofquinte57]

Hi everyone,
am trying my hand at beading my first pair of moccasins. I have made regular moccs, no lining, just double soled, handstitched, pucker toe. This pair I want to add a lining, cushioning and beaded vamp and cuff. I will be doing the bead work in the Iroquoian way - raised beading on velvet. First concern. Am I glueing the beadwork on or tacking it on? What do I glue it on with, and what does that do to the edges...velvet frays quite a bit. I do, however do my work on a background pellon material, but I still have the end of the velvet folded over. (am I making any sense?!?)

second concern. the lining and/or cushion insole adds bulk to the inside...do I put the cushion between the two soles on the outside or between lining and leather on the inside? Do I make my whole pattern a little bigger, and if so, how much bigger?

Thanks so much!

[yaahl]

Hey BoQ, long time no see! How ya been?

When I line my mocs, I don't adjust at all. The hide usually stretches over time (especially deer or elk) so making them bigger to begin with might make them too big after a few wearings.

When I pad mine I put the pad between the lining and the inside hide. That way if the padding needs to be fixed, It's easy to get to it through the lining rather than trying to get to it between the two layers of hide.

Whenever I've used material instead of hide for the vamps, I just sew them in the same way I would sew in a hide vamp. For any cuffs - I usually sew in the raw edge and use the salvage edge for the finished edge. I usually do a bead edging to finish it or I just do a small blanket stitch around the edge. Foe velvet, it comes with the salvage without the nap so you could stitch it under to finish it.

As far as any glue you use, it'll depend on whether you want them to be archival - iow, you don't want the glue breaking down any fabric or hide by the chemicals used in the glue. I've seen lots of beautiful work wrecked because the glue used turns yellow and stains the fabric and hides or it eats away at the hide.

If you are every down near Brantford, have a look in the Woodlands Cultural centre, the curators will let you have a close up look at some of the mocs... so will the McCord in Montreal if you call ahead. I think the Bata Museum also has some mocs on exhibit... you might get them to let you see a few close up as well.

[bayofquinte57]

thanks so much for taking the time to answer ALL of my questions! You are a wealth of info!! I need to take lessons from you! I am sewing on moose hide for the sole and vamp. I am thinking of something thinner for the cuff. The velvet is on top of the hide for both the cuff and vamp, not a replacement, so, at least for the cuff, I figure I will find something thinner for the hide. Not like it takes a lot of wear! If I can't, I just might make the whole cuff out of the velvet and double it. I know they used to finish the seam by the top of the foot with red seam binding. I love the look, and have always wanted my own. Guess I have to make 'em myself!! (The guy on my reserve does 'typical' ones,and does a great job, too but they are not traditional looking ones.)

You've seen the cultural centre too? I love them there. Even though my people are from Tyendinaga, they were kind enough to check my beadwork when I was first learning. I learned how to do my first pair of moccasins from the Jake Thomas centre. And boy did I buy them out of hominy!! Good times. Anyway...wish me well...here I go! Thanks again, appreciate it!

[yaahl]

Oh, I miss Jake Thomas, I had the pleasure of listening to him read the Great Law way back in the late 80s...I loved that he committed to memorizing it and reading it every year.

If you are going to sew in the vamp. try using a small weld around the edge of the vamp that sits between it and the toe piece, it'll make it stronger. We show our welds, but I've seen them hidden quite neatly too.

[bayofquinte57]

I forgot to ask you....what are you using to pad your soles? I read that some use underpad from carpets, but that's the one where they put it between the two outer soles.

I finally got my pattern good I think...hope....now I'm gonna start the beadwork.

[yaahl]

I forgot to ask you....what are you using to pad your soles? I read that some use underpad from carpets, but that's the one where they put it between the two outer soles.

I finally got my pattern good I think...hope....now I'm gonna start the beadwork.

I use the shoe inserts - already sized and they usually have an anti-microbial. I can get them at Walmart for about a dollar each.